OK… so here I sit, feeling a bit of euphoria after a quick visit home… I made it there in time for one of winter’s last stabs at asserting control the day before St Pat’s- always a big day in the City. And while I was there, I did my best to hit all the necessary spots and make sure my old standards are keeping up with their, well… old standards. In the midst of all my reminiscing, though, I was introduced to a new venue that will undoubtedly be a lock for my next trip.
Tucked away on a side street in Brooklyn (Carrol Gardens, but right on the border of Red Hook- as a matter of fact, they bill their location as the “Gateway to Red Hook”) is a little place called Schnack. Consistently voted best burgers in Brooklyn, even though they are so much more. I walked in the door and was smacked in the face with a smell that just set my stomach to grumble mode… it was great, just what i needded after a long day of walking around the old stomping grounds. The specials board advertised RC Cola Ribs and Beer Milkshakes… I knew I was in the right place.
I sat in the corner with a few friends. We were quickly greeted and within a short time, we were fighting over the baskets of onion rings and sweet potato fries (a seasonal treat and, sorry-the season just ended!). Everything on the menu seemed to scream about comfort, but I was in the mood for a burger, so burger it was gonna be!! It was, in fact, a Super Combo and a pint of Schwag, one of the three house beers.
The burger came out just as the natives (aka my friends) were getting restless… and what a sight we were given- not sure how the table supported the weight of all this food! The burger was great- stacked high and loaded with all kinds of flavor, completely living up to the beautiful smells that greeted us at the door. What a great texture, too… the meat crumbled and blended with all the other great flavors. The levels of taste just got more and more complex. I wiped my hands after the first bite, but I knew it was pointless and after that, I dealt with the mess till I was done.
The meal was, in a word, perfect. On a cold night with day-old snow on the ground, what could make you feel more warm and toasty (and ready for hibernation) than a nice heavy meal? I ate like a of guy headed to The Chair, with little regard for how I would feel the next day. And, unfortunately, without giving thought to the finer offerings on the menu, namely, the Beer Milk Shakes. So now I sit here, 2500 miles away, kicking myself and wondering what I was thinking, just where my head was at… no Beer Milk Shakes, jamming that burger down and not taking up the offer to try some of the RC Cola Ribs, limiting myself by ordering the quad… what a mess. All the more reason to go back though. Schnack has hammered out a space in my heart and I know its going to be there for a long time.
Dr Seuss, a personal favorite of mine, once wrote: “I have cracks in my shack/I have smoke in my stack/and I think there’s a Schnack/ in the sack on my back…” Well- I’ll tell you what- if the good Doctor was lucky enough to have a sack full of Schnack, then there wasn’t much else for him to be worried about. Especially if he could get a Beer Milk Shake to go!!
I have eaten many a burger in many a place, but nothing could possibly stack up against this Quad… it represented everything a great burger should be. And if a great burger is what you’re after, there’s no need to leave town- just make a quick trip to the outer boros. Everyone needs to satisfy a burger fix now and again; when the need hits you, do yourself a favor and head over to Schnack. ‘Cause Johnny Tomatoes says so!!
Schnack
122 Union St
Wednesday, April 25, 2007
Saturday, April 07, 2007
Friday, March 09, 2007
East vs West: Cold War in the Carolinas
Time to switch gears for a minute. I’m sure you realize how the Big Guy feels about Food and about New York and about Food in New York; Best of the Best, right?. But there are times where you have to travel a little bit to get a particular taste. Like Barbeque. Trust me, I’ve looked all over this city, tried a lot of places and nobody anywhere on MY island makes exactly what I am looking for.
I even spent some time looking and asking around in LA. A lot of people pointed me towards Zeke’s. It was good but not quite what I was looking for. So now, after one more incident of disappointment, I think that the only way to satisfy my search for this flavor is by telling the whole story. Maybe someone out there can help me find what I’m after.
To get to the heart of this, we need to head South, down to North Carolina. Particularly, to Charlotte. I’ve spent some time south of the Mason-Dixon line in my life and have developed a healthy appreciation for real Barbeque. And when I want a good plate of barbeque, nothing else will do. Not any old meat is going to do it either- it has to be pork… Pulled pork, slow cooked in a smoker, and by slow I mean about eight hours. (Now that’s slow...)
My emotional attachment to this tender dish began in a place called Roger’s Barbeque. But, before I get into the particulars of my love for this Southern delicacy (specifically the Eastern North Carolina version), I’m going to pass on a little knowledge, just as it was passed on to me by “Roger” himself. His name is actually Dick, known to just a few as “Smoke”. He is a Charlotte native; being a Yankee, with limited knowledge of things such as this, I took him at his word. This has become Gospel etched in my food-loving soul and nearly all of my ideas of what make good barbeque stem from his wisdom. Any arguments you have with the case I make, you can take up with him… but I wouldn’t. (See 'Third' below)
First, Barbecue in North Carolina means different things to different people; mostly it depends on what part of the state you are doing your eating. It starts with the part of the pig used. In the west, pork shoulders are generally the choice piece of meat. In the east, you’ll usually find the whole pig dressed and resting over the fire for a good six to eight hours. The sauce can cause a little controversy, too. The whole state agrees on one part of it: a vinegar-based, heavily seasoned sauce. The distinction here is that in the west, there is one more ingredient than you’ll find in the east: a small amount of tomato base added to the sauce. (I have found that most places offering barbeque outside of North Carolina only make the western version. And to tell you the truth, it is usually a lot wetter than I ever found it to be in North Carolina. Now, add one more idea to the mix… I cut my teeth on Eastern barbeque, so it is naturally what I am after… making my search a little tougher)
Second, Barbecue is never to be eaten alone. And it didn’t take any experience to figure this out. No, all of my instincts told me from the first time I saw it looking so delicious, calling me over, that it was part of a bigger, better picture. Too many things will fit on that plate with it. Everyone I have ever talked to about barbeque confirmed that but we’ll get into more about what the Big Guy likes with his barbeque later.
Third, and very important: never argue one man’s idea of barbeque versus another… I’ve almost seen it come to blows over that. At first I wondered why; they seemed so similar. The major difference I noticed was the slight variation of the sauce; how could there be such a huge issue over that? But the more I thought about it, the more I began to understand… I know how I would feel if someone told me that the meatballs my mother made for me all my life were being made the wrong way; no doubt in my mind there would be some blood shed over that one.
OK- and now, after our minor introduction to this delicacy, I can start to tell you about Roger’s Barbeque a place just outside the Charlotte city limits. Roger's wasn’t only about the food, it was a full Southern experience. The walls at Roger's were covered. There were small signs offering bits of wisdom (Like 'Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and annoys the pig' and 'Never trust a man that doesn't drink'), a rack of 'personal' mugs for the rail-birds (daily regulars that sat and 'crowed' at the counter), and just about anything you could think of relating back to a pig. Needless to say, walking through the door, you had a good idea this place was not for vegetarians. The menu at Roger’s, top to bottom, inside and out, was just filled with food to make you feel comfortable. Biscuits and gravy with grits for breakfast, a nice bowl of Brunswick stew for lunch, and for dinner… well, that is where the story really gets me going. (While it is true that I could have eaten the que for lunch, after my taste developed, I always liked saving it for my biggest meal of the day…) As a side note, Roger’s is sadly no more and all I have left is the memory of food that I may never see again.
Barbeque, as a meal, is multifaceted. It is not simply a plate of pulled pork. Just as important is what you surround it with. Personally, I like to have half a dozen hushpuppies, some collared greens, and a nice dish of coleslaw always seemed to sorta cool things down (even though it had a nice spicy mustard base instead of a mayo base) . I still remember the first time I tried barbeque. I had no idea it would cause the obsessive search I am taking part in now. After one meal, I was hooked. The savory vinegar and spice infused meat with the smoky undertones… all the great dishes that accompanied it (and outside North Carolina, it is nowhere to be found)…just one more thing we need to cover: Beverage.
I am a great believer of the “when in Rome...” theory of eating. Certain flavors are meant to be together, something the locals have spent a lifetime pairing off. When you are eating barbeque, what could possibly better compliment this treat than a big glass of sweet tea? Like barbeque, there is something inherently Southern about sweet tea. Actually, finding it is as tough as finding good barbeque up North. But down South, it is a staple. And I’ll tell you- nobody, I mean NOBODY makes sweet tea like a Southern girl does. I think it has something to do with just the right mix being handed down, generations tweaking the recipe till it was just right. If the barbeque is seasoned like it is supposed to be (and because sweet tea made the right way is just so good), one glass just won’t do. When all those spices kick in, you’ll need another one; more is always better with sweet tea and barbeque, but only if both come from the right side of the Mason Dixon line… (Oh I wish I was in Dixie….)
If you just can’t wrap your head around what I am trying to tell you… if the idea that the Big Guy has admitted that there might be a dish made better somewhere than right here in My City… don’t worry too much. And don’t get yourself too used to it happening either: it won’t happen often enough to warrant that. Just this once, though, we’ll try something new. An open mind is ok. Just don’t let it get so open that you forget where the center of the Universe is. For my money, though, if it’s Barbeque you’re after, make the road trip and make sure it’s the real thing. There is no place better for North Carolina Barbeque than North Carolina. ‘Cause Johnny Tomatoes says so!!
I even spent some time looking and asking around in LA. A lot of people pointed me towards Zeke’s. It was good but not quite what I was looking for. So now, after one more incident of disappointment, I think that the only way to satisfy my search for this flavor is by telling the whole story. Maybe someone out there can help me find what I’m after.
To get to the heart of this, we need to head South, down to North Carolina. Particularly, to Charlotte. I’ve spent some time south of the Mason-Dixon line in my life and have developed a healthy appreciation for real Barbeque. And when I want a good plate of barbeque, nothing else will do. Not any old meat is going to do it either- it has to be pork… Pulled pork, slow cooked in a smoker, and by slow I mean about eight hours. (Now that’s slow...)
My emotional attachment to this tender dish began in a place called Roger’s Barbeque. But, before I get into the particulars of my love for this Southern delicacy (specifically the Eastern North Carolina version), I’m going to pass on a little knowledge, just as it was passed on to me by “Roger” himself. His name is actually Dick, known to just a few as “Smoke”. He is a Charlotte native; being a Yankee, with limited knowledge of things such as this, I took him at his word. This has become Gospel etched in my food-loving soul and nearly all of my ideas of what make good barbeque stem from his wisdom. Any arguments you have with the case I make, you can take up with him… but I wouldn’t. (See 'Third' below)
First, Barbecue in North Carolina means different things to different people; mostly it depends on what part of the state you are doing your eating. It starts with the part of the pig used. In the west, pork shoulders are generally the choice piece of meat. In the east, you’ll usually find the whole pig dressed and resting over the fire for a good six to eight hours. The sauce can cause a little controversy, too. The whole state agrees on one part of it: a vinegar-based, heavily seasoned sauce. The distinction here is that in the west, there is one more ingredient than you’ll find in the east: a small amount of tomato base added to the sauce. (I have found that most places offering barbeque outside of North Carolina only make the western version. And to tell you the truth, it is usually a lot wetter than I ever found it to be in North Carolina. Now, add one more idea to the mix… I cut my teeth on Eastern barbeque, so it is naturally what I am after… making my search a little tougher)
Second, Barbecue is never to be eaten alone. And it didn’t take any experience to figure this out. No, all of my instincts told me from the first time I saw it looking so delicious, calling me over, that it was part of a bigger, better picture. Too many things will fit on that plate with it. Everyone I have ever talked to about barbeque confirmed that but we’ll get into more about what the Big Guy likes with his barbeque later.
Third, and very important: never argue one man’s idea of barbeque versus another… I’ve almost seen it come to blows over that. At first I wondered why; they seemed so similar. The major difference I noticed was the slight variation of the sauce; how could there be such a huge issue over that? But the more I thought about it, the more I began to understand… I know how I would feel if someone told me that the meatballs my mother made for me all my life were being made the wrong way; no doubt in my mind there would be some blood shed over that one.
OK- and now, after our minor introduction to this delicacy, I can start to tell you about Roger’s Barbeque a place just outside the Charlotte city limits. Roger's wasn’t only about the food, it was a full Southern experience. The walls at Roger's were covered. There were small signs offering bits of wisdom (Like 'Never try to teach a pig to sing; it wastes your time and annoys the pig' and 'Never trust a man that doesn't drink'), a rack of 'personal' mugs for the rail-birds (daily regulars that sat and 'crowed' at the counter), and just about anything you could think of relating back to a pig. Needless to say, walking through the door, you had a good idea this place was not for vegetarians. The menu at Roger’s, top to bottom, inside and out, was just filled with food to make you feel comfortable. Biscuits and gravy with grits for breakfast, a nice bowl of Brunswick stew for lunch, and for dinner… well, that is where the story really gets me going. (While it is true that I could have eaten the que for lunch, after my taste developed, I always liked saving it for my biggest meal of the day…) As a side note, Roger’s is sadly no more and all I have left is the memory of food that I may never see again.
Barbeque, as a meal, is multifaceted. It is not simply a plate of pulled pork. Just as important is what you surround it with. Personally, I like to have half a dozen hushpuppies, some collared greens, and a nice dish of coleslaw always seemed to sorta cool things down (even though it had a nice spicy mustard base instead of a mayo base) . I still remember the first time I tried barbeque. I had no idea it would cause the obsessive search I am taking part in now. After one meal, I was hooked. The savory vinegar and spice infused meat with the smoky undertones… all the great dishes that accompanied it (and outside North Carolina, it is nowhere to be found)…just one more thing we need to cover: Beverage.
I am a great believer of the “when in Rome...” theory of eating. Certain flavors are meant to be together, something the locals have spent a lifetime pairing off. When you are eating barbeque, what could possibly better compliment this treat than a big glass of sweet tea? Like barbeque, there is something inherently Southern about sweet tea. Actually, finding it is as tough as finding good barbeque up North. But down South, it is a staple. And I’ll tell you- nobody, I mean NOBODY makes sweet tea like a Southern girl does. I think it has something to do with just the right mix being handed down, generations tweaking the recipe till it was just right. If the barbeque is seasoned like it is supposed to be (and because sweet tea made the right way is just so good), one glass just won’t do. When all those spices kick in, you’ll need another one; more is always better with sweet tea and barbeque, but only if both come from the right side of the Mason Dixon line… (Oh I wish I was in Dixie….)
If you just can’t wrap your head around what I am trying to tell you… if the idea that the Big Guy has admitted that there might be a dish made better somewhere than right here in My City… don’t worry too much. And don’t get yourself too used to it happening either: it won’t happen often enough to warrant that. Just this once, though, we’ll try something new. An open mind is ok. Just don’t let it get so open that you forget where the center of the Universe is. For my money, though, if it’s Barbeque you’re after, make the road trip and make sure it’s the real thing. There is no place better for North Carolina Barbeque than North Carolina. ‘Cause Johnny Tomatoes says so!!
Friday, January 26, 2007
You've seen the sea gulls.. now it's time for the Bagels!
New York… City of my birth… Center of the Universe…I really start to miss it sometimes, especially when it seems like half the people I know in LA are going there some time in the near future. Definitely time to book a trip.
I’m not sure, but I think what got me started was bagels. I could say “I can’t remember the last time I had a really good bagel…” but that would be a lie. I remember exactly when the last time I had a good bagel was: last time I was home, of course! When it comes to this breakfast of (NYT crossword) champions, I am really selective about where I go and what I eat- but that’s nothin’ new. And you can be assured of one thing- I have found a few places that make my favorite bagel, my favorite way; for me, it’s gotta be an Everything Bagel with a nice schmear of lox spread- nothing, but nothing, else will do.
Now, if you’re looking to have a sit-down with a bagel and some smoked fish, this list would have to be revised. I love these takeout places best for a quick bite on the go- like a good slice- but if you wanna go full on, you’ll have to consider places like Barney Greengrass (best chopped liver in the city- even for a mensch goy like me!!), Ess A Bagel, or Noah’s. A whole separate write-up as far as I’m concerned.
There is a great shop in Carroll Gardens, on the corner of Henry and Union. And considering what my bagel of choice is, it seems the perfect place for me: Everything Bagel. First time I was here was during a snowstorm- big feather-like flakes were piling up on any surface they could find- the street, cars, me… I stepped in and was greeted by the great smell of fresh baked bagels and the beautiful sight of baskets behind the counter loaded with them. It was my first time here and I went right for the benchmark so I could make a proper call on the place- Everything with Lox spread, coffee regular. I was not disappointed: the bagel was still warm, making the cream cheese a little mushada; it had a slightly crisp exterior with a good mix of salt, garlic, onion, and all the appropriate seeds and the steamy interior was just chewy enough… Great coffee too, which never hurts.
If the mood strikes me while I am on the West Side, up in the 70’s/80’s, there is a great little spot on Amsterdam Ave. Bagel Talk has warm bagels coming out of the oven all day long. The turnover is fast and I’ve actually been double-parked out front waiting for their Everything Bagels to come out- warm and chewy on the outside, steam coming off the soft doughy inside as it is cut open- what else is there? Let them put a nice (Now if only I could avoid those meter-maids …)
These two places are good if you’re in town, but to get my favorite bagels, the best bagels I have ever had, you would have to go east- out to the Island. May seem like a long trip, but that never stopped me and it shouldn’t stop you either. I have been eating bagels from this place since…whoa- a really long time. Take the LIE to exit 37 or the GCP to exit 28 and head south a bit. On Willis Ave in Albertson, you’ll find a place called Bagels and Bialys. Couldn’t be more straightforward than that, could it? This place has been putting out the best everything bagel the world has ever known for as long as I can remember. It is THE perfect bagel. Hit it with a schmear of (you guessed it) lox spread and chase it with a nice cuppa coffee; could you get much closer to heaven in a handheld breakfast? Almost enough to make me convert!! The line on any given morning, not just Saturday or Sunday, is surprising, but only if you have never tasted their bagels. I used to make the occasional trip from the boros out here just for bagels. I’m not sure, but I think the receipts from any given Sunday would just about wipe out the national debt- I have seen the line that long!!
So there it is- the Big Guy’s picks for a few places to catch a great bite on the run. If you find yourself in the neck of the woods of any of these places at any given time, do yourself a favor, step in and grab a half dozen to take home and let them fix one for you to have on the ride, too. If you don’t wanna do yourself a favor, then do me a favor and send em out to me- these lifeless lumps of dough out in SoCal are killin me!!
Remember, bagels aren’t just a breakfast food- like a good slice, not only good to travel with… you could eat it any time. Stop in any of these places anytime they’re open and ask for whatever they have that’s warm with a schmear- if they won’t tell you what’s warm, put your hand on the glass window between you and your meal- you’ll find out fast enough. There’s no way you could be disappointed. ‘Cause Johnny Tomatoes says so!!
Everything Bagel
520 Henry St
(corner of Union)
Bagel Talk
368 Amsterdam Ave
(left side b/t 77th and 78th)
Bagels and Bialys
1152 Willis Ave
Albertson LI
I’m not sure, but I think what got me started was bagels. I could say “I can’t remember the last time I had a really good bagel…” but that would be a lie. I remember exactly when the last time I had a good bagel was: last time I was home, of course! When it comes to this breakfast of (NYT crossword) champions, I am really selective about where I go and what I eat- but that’s nothin’ new. And you can be assured of one thing- I have found a few places that make my favorite bagel, my favorite way; for me, it’s gotta be an Everything Bagel with a nice schmear of lox spread- nothing, but nothing, else will do.
Now, if you’re looking to have a sit-down with a bagel and some smoked fish, this list would have to be revised. I love these takeout places best for a quick bite on the go- like a good slice- but if you wanna go full on, you’ll have to consider places like Barney Greengrass (best chopped liver in the city- even for a mensch goy like me!!), Ess A Bagel, or Noah’s. A whole separate write-up as far as I’m concerned.
There is a great shop in Carroll Gardens, on the corner of Henry and Union. And considering what my bagel of choice is, it seems the perfect place for me: Everything Bagel. First time I was here was during a snowstorm- big feather-like flakes were piling up on any surface they could find- the street, cars, me… I stepped in and was greeted by the great smell of fresh baked bagels and the beautiful sight of baskets behind the counter loaded with them. It was my first time here and I went right for the benchmark so I could make a proper call on the place- Everything with Lox spread, coffee regular. I was not disappointed: the bagel was still warm, making the cream cheese a little mushada; it had a slightly crisp exterior with a good mix of salt, garlic, onion, and all the appropriate seeds and the steamy interior was just chewy enough… Great coffee too, which never hurts.
If the mood strikes me while I am on the West Side, up in the 70’s/80’s, there is a great little spot on Amsterdam Ave. Bagel Talk has warm bagels coming out of the oven all day long. The turnover is fast and I’ve actually been double-parked out front waiting for their Everything Bagels to come out- warm and chewy on the outside, steam coming off the soft doughy inside as it is cut open- what else is there? Let them put a nice (Now if only I could avoid those meter-maids …)
These two places are good if you’re in town, but to get my favorite bagels, the best bagels I have ever had, you would have to go east- out to the Island. May seem like a long trip, but that never stopped me and it shouldn’t stop you either. I have been eating bagels from this place since…whoa- a really long time. Take the LIE to exit 37 or the GCP to exit 28 and head south a bit. On Willis Ave in Albertson, you’ll find a place called Bagels and Bialys. Couldn’t be more straightforward than that, could it? This place has been putting out the best everything bagel the world has ever known for as long as I can remember. It is THE perfect bagel. Hit it with a schmear of (you guessed it) lox spread and chase it with a nice cuppa coffee; could you get much closer to heaven in a handheld breakfast? Almost enough to make me convert!! The line on any given morning, not just Saturday or Sunday, is surprising, but only if you have never tasted their bagels. I used to make the occasional trip from the boros out here just for bagels. I’m not sure, but I think the receipts from any given Sunday would just about wipe out the national debt- I have seen the line that long!!
So there it is- the Big Guy’s picks for a few places to catch a great bite on the run. If you find yourself in the neck of the woods of any of these places at any given time, do yourself a favor, step in and grab a half dozen to take home and let them fix one for you to have on the ride, too. If you don’t wanna do yourself a favor, then do me a favor and send em out to me- these lifeless lumps of dough out in SoCal are killin me!!
Remember, bagels aren’t just a breakfast food- like a good slice, not only good to travel with… you could eat it any time. Stop in any of these places anytime they’re open and ask for whatever they have that’s warm with a schmear- if they won’t tell you what’s warm, put your hand on the glass window between you and your meal- you’ll find out fast enough. There’s no way you could be disappointed. ‘Cause Johnny Tomatoes says so!!
Everything Bagel
520 Henry St
(corner of Union)
Bagel Talk
368 Amsterdam Ave
(left side b/t 77th and 78th)
Bagels and Bialys
1152 Willis Ave
Albertson LI
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